Chicha Fuerte: Panama’s Corn Hooch

If you spend enough time roaming the backroads of Veraguas—dodging chickens, waving at farmers, and knocking on country doors, you'll eventually be invited in for one of Panama's rustic sipping traditions. That drink is chicha fuerte,

In the hinterlands of Veraguas, country living is still rooted in the land. Family agriculture is both a trade and a tradition. Corn is a big part of that tradition.

One might think that corn is a boring topic. But corn has so many uses in life. In this article, specifically, I'd like to talk about one of the secret social sauces of Veraguas. You guessed it...corn hooch.

What Exactly Is Chicha Fuerte?

Imagine corn. Now imagine regular corn undergoing a transformation into a second career as a social function instead of an ordinary food staple. Born again corn! That’s chicha fuerte.

Today we're going to introduce you to the best brewer of Chicha Fuerte in the small fishing town of Lagartero. Her name is Guadalupe but the folks around here call her Lupe for short.

If the corn is the cheerleader, then Lupe is the 'life coach'. She has to coax the corn kernels into taking root in the fermentation process. This video explains the process:

So chicha fuerte is a part of the local culture. It is inexpensive and is all natural. It takes a magic touch to make 'just right' but in all...the steps are fairly simple to follow. These factors have made chicha fuerte very popular in rural Panama. Corn hooch, however, has had its ups and downs.

Panama's Corn Hooch gone Awry

I will describe a social phenomenon...specifically in the area of Santa Catalina, Hicaco and Lagartero that may be considered better left out of this article. Luckily it's mostly in the past now, but understanding points of history can really help explain both the present and also get a gauge on the future.

Back a decade or two ago, you'd drive by and see a lot more chicha fuerte. Almost always a group of younger or older men outside on the front porch sharing some stories over a strong cup of corn hooch. This could be any time of the day...both morning and evening. When my interest was peaked I had to ask...where are all the girls? It turned out that when fishing didn't work out that day or week or year...little by little girls coming of age would take to the road and get to larger towns or Panama City to work in stores or with families around the country. The men would usually stick to fishing but most times not be able to 'get ahead'. This created an imbalance in the community with many more men hanging out and passing the day between fishing trips. When there was a good fishing expedition, the guys would celebrate with cold beer from the cantina. When things were rough, they'd make do with a jug of chicha fuerte on the front porch. Without the influence of some of the more proactive females in the community, the hooch came out more and more. Most times I passed by and visited the different towns in the area, chicha fuerte had become more of a symbol of 'getting by' than for the traditional country celebration.

Things have changed with tourism. Now the fishermen don't have to just fish for...fish. There are tourists to take on trips and tours. The ladies of the towns can help their households much closer to home finding work in the fledgling tourism sector. They can also get back and forth much easier with better infrastructure and public transportation. Little by little chica fuerte is re taking its position as a positive tradition rather than a downtrodden brew. It's a lesson that balance is important in life. I think that anyone can apply that lesson to many facets of their own lives.

Balance your Chicha Fuerta - Balance your Life

So corn hooch has its ups and downs. Taken in moderation it's a traditional beverage that acts as a social lubricant. With some it could act as a truth serum and others may achieve a certain caliber of mild spiritual awakening. Still others...it could be an outright mistake.

Balance is important when dealing with corn hooch. Celebrate your harvest or your catch. Dance, tell stories, and make strangers your friends. Careful not to drive your car, ride your horse or neglect your women, however. Keep your life in balance and drink your chica fuerte in moderation. Peace.

Saludos from Lago Bay!!!